Travel Journal #1: Ireland (Part Four)
Cullan McNamara
Dates: September 11-18, 2017
Destination: Republic of Ireland
Travel Buddy: Kevin McNamara (Dad)
Part One: Day 4 (with post-trip updates)
“I almost dreaded the question because our plan was always so... nonexistent.”
Sept. 15, 2017 - Bunratty to Gap of Dunloe to Killorglin
UPDATE
I got a nice pen again! I'm celebrating by writing in blue ink. (Which you can't see on the blog....)
ANYWAY
My father got a later start than I did despite the fact we both slept for around 11 hours. As he slothed his way to the starting line of day four, I was up and at 'em. I showered quickly and went for breakfast. Most of us guests arrived at the same time, but they were all in pairs. I was alone save for the journal at my side. There were three couples, a mother and daughter, and me. The husband who helped run the place cheerily took our orders. He'd vanish into the kitchen and be back in a dash with freshly cooked meals. He was almost as quick as his wife. I knew she was back there cooking because she'd worn an apron even when she showed us around the place. She seemed to be in the kitchen each time I'd walked passed.
I was last to order, and my meal was last to arrive, but that was perfect. I managed to write more than I'd hoped to in that sitting. When my full breakfast of bacon, egg, potatoes, and mystery meat came, I devoured it. I even ate the food I didn't recognize like it was going out of style. I wasn't that hungry - I simply wanted to get back to writing. I knew the more I got done then, the easier it would be when I got home. (News flash: I didn't get enough done in Ireland.)
My dad finally showed up after some time and oddly restricted himself to the little breakfast bar. It was sufficient enough, but I had no doubt he would've sprung for the full breakfast as well. I had actually talked to the mother and daughter next to me earlier, who were from Texas, and I relayed their story to my father. My dad and I chatted about our day after that, which I didn't expect to be such a mess.
"So, what's our plan?" my father asked. I almost dreaded the question because our plan was always so... nonexistent.
"Well, I want to see the Gap of Dunloe...."
"What's that again?"
"It's a spot with a small lake and river that are surrounded by mountains. It's beautiful, and it's on the Ring of Kerry that Klaus told us about. Then, I'm thinking we stay out of Killarney - it's a popular city, so it'll be pricier. I found a nice place 15 minutes out in Killorglin...."
"Book it."
"You sure?"
"You've done well so far," he said with a laugh.
"Okay. Then, I figure we can hit the Blarney Stone tomorrow morning and head back up to Galway after that. We can stay outside of Dublin Sunday night."
"Sounds good to me. Have you booked a place in Galway?"
"No, but I can."
"Go ahead. I trust you, haha."
I quickly found what was available in our budget, showed my dad, and booked it.
"Ya know, this is the first day we've had a place booked more than 12 hours in advance."
My father simply laughed and nodded with a smile. After finishing chewing, he added, "You're doing great."
Bunratty Castle, County Clare, IR
So, Friday and Saturday were settled. That felt damn good. First, we had to see Bunratty Castle and find the famous P. Mac Namara & Son pub. These were both about a mile down the road. We said our goodbyes to the lady of the establishment, as commanded, and we departed for the castle. We paid our way in - I utilized my recently outdated university ID. There is an entire historical village inside, but we moved straight toward the castle.
Bunratty is in County Clare, where our lineage draws back to on my grandfather's side. Our ancestors most likely lived on that very land. Still, more definitive research should be done. We were in awe when we saw how massive the place was. The castle was huge and completely intact. The two of us entered and scoured the inside to learn the history. I remembered something the bartender at McNamara's The Irish Arms said, "The O'Briens were the clever ones - we were the stupid ones." To some extent, this was true.
The Great Hall in Bunratty Castle, County Clare, IR
The McNamaras, we discovered, actually built the castle at Blarney. They held it for 50 years before sharing their power with the O'Briens. The O'Briens and McNamaras worked together for some time to defend the castle and its village. Apparently, there were around 1,000 tenants in the area. It was all extremely intriguing, especially for us history nerds. Our joy grew when we saw our family's crest hanging on the wall in the great hall of the castle. I mean, that's pretty awesome.
“They were a symbol of power to the clans, though they were obviously never hunted.”
The McNamara Clan's crest, Bunratty Castle, County Clare, IR
One of the most impressive features in the great hall were sets of antlers. The biggest of them was probably 10 feet wide, five to six feet tall, and had about 16 points. One of the guides explained, "The Irish Elk antlers were always hung in the great hall. The Irish Elk were said to be nearly 12 feet tall and lived around 10 to 15 thousand years ago. They died out after the ice age and are totally extinct now. They were a symbol of power to the clans, though they were obviously never hunted."
She later explained this castle was empty for a while, until it was restored in the 1900s. The antlers were real, though. They tried to preserve the artifacts that would've been in the castle when it was inhabited. We toured the rest and made our way to the top for a stunning view. This place was truly magnificent, especially because of the familial ties. It felt like we'd taken a step not only into the past but into our past. I took photos, then we wound our way back down and out into the village.
My dad fanatically studied every building and placard, but I was there for the castle and the pub. I hurried him as he slowed me. We had a lot on our agenda that day, but he won in the end. I wouldn't move ahead without him. We engaged in a long conversation about our family history with an employee of the village. It's too long to recount, but, as she used to be a genealogist, she provided friendly tips on how to find our true family history. Most likely they were in this area, but it's better to be sure. I think this long conversation put some pep in my dad's step - next thing I knew, we were looking down the street at P. Mac Namara & Son Bar.
It was around lunchtime when we entered the empty pub. The friendly bartender greeted and served us our Guinnesses as my dad told him the tale of why we were here. My grandparents had taken a picture out front of this bar 20 some years ago. Moments before, we stopped a man to recreate the same photograph. I directed him into position, then he took it, and I was editing it in the bar. Once I finished, my father happily showed the bartender ours and the original much to both of their delights.
My dad had two goals when we came to Ireland: recreate the picture of grandma and grandpa outside of this bar - check; kiss the Blarney Stone - pending. His obsession with these two objectives essentially blinded him of all the other wonders of the country. But, that's why we made a good team. I helped him see the rest, and he made the trip a reality. I don't think I've ever seen him as happy as he was sipping that Guinness in that damn bar. To be honest, it was just a little tourist pub that played American pop music and existed in a fake village. Yet, nothing could take this moment from him. I think he felt connected to grandpa in that moment. He'd died nearly 10 years ago, and my dad seemed as close to him now as he was then. He didn't say any of that, but there are some things we just know as humans.
Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, County Clare, IR
We were interrupted by another one of the characters in the town in the form of a constable.
"Have you been drinking, sir?"
"Why of course, constable," my dad responded as he raised his glass.
"How did I know I'd catch ya here just at the right time? Looks like you'll need a ticket!" he jested. He signed his name on a piece of paper and handed it to my father saying, "Here ye go, sir. Maybe this'll help add to the memories! Since you're doing such a fine job of erasing them, haha!"
He laughed his way back out onto the street. The paper read:
P. Mac Namara & Son Bar, Bunratty, County Clare, IR
We ended our pints and got a snack in the gift shop caffe. We were soon on the road to the Gap of Dunloe.
Dad and I arrived in good time at the Gap. That drive was the most relaxing yet, mostly on large highways. It was only really tight for the last five to 10 minutes. A man with a horse carriage directed us to a parking lot saying that only locals and hotel guests could drive up the narrow road. We parked, my dad smoked, and I looked at the map. It was maybe a mile's walk to the bridge, which was a great viewpoint. Here we go again....
"I'm not taking a carriage - you know I'm allergic to horses."
"You just said you may not be anymore like yesterday!"
"You don't know what it's like!" my dad said fuming.
"What what's like?" I angrily responded.
"Not being able to breath or see...." my dad said as he walked away.
Gap of Dunloe, County Kerry, IR
Both at Diamond Hill and at the Cliffs he was happy he did it. I hoped he would feel the same this time. I felt bad for pressuring him, though he did calmly accept the challenge of walking after a cigarette. The incline was slight, and again we took breaks for photos. In only about 10 minutes, the bridge was in sight, which I was thankful for. I went left onto the large rocks in the river and began taking photos of the bridge. The water cascaded over-top of the rocks and between them in a beautiful way. I slowed down the shutter speed to get that silky effect with the water and snapped many photos. It was truly gorgeous.
Gap of Dunloe, County Kerry, IR
My dad made it to the bridge before I did, so I hopped out of the river and finished the short walk. The view was seriously amazing. It was so impressive that a couple was getting their wedding photos done there.
"Okay - you were right. This is totally worth it. Plus, that was only like a 20 minute walk! It wasn't what I expected at all. And, it's beautiful here. Get a picture of them!" he said pointing to the bride and groom.
"Why?"
"Because it proves how incredible this place is!"
I argued then did as he pleased. I took more photos of the picturesque scene with my camera stabilized on the bridge. There was the small lake in the valley that led to the rocky river, and the mountains towered on the sides, curling into the background. The air smelled of fresh water, and you heard it rush between the stones, and there were horseshoes clamoring on the road. If you go anywhere in Ireland, make sure you stop at the Gap of Dunloe. There are few natural wonders more magnificent.
Our time there was short but fulfilled, and we got to our lodgings, the Aloha House, quite early. Somehow, I had once again outdone myself. The place was huge, beautiful, and rested on a great piece of land near a river. There was a rooftop deck that had a covered room as well, which provided a splendid view of Killorglin. The room was comfortable, and the bathroom was nice. I'm not sure what more we could've asked for.
Killorglin, IR
"Where are some good local pubs?" my dad asked the employee.
"Just down this road, you go a block passed the stop sign, take a right, and you're downtown! I would recommend Kingston's... or Foley's if you're looking for a local place. Then again, most of this place is local."
"You're American? How're you working here?" I asked.
"Oh, I use this site called Workaway...."
"Workaway? I just signed up for that a few months ago. My good buddy from Scotland swears by it."
"Yeah - that's how I ended up here, and I couldn't be happier, honestly."
"Well, thank you so much for your help," my dad said.
"Of course! If you need anything, let me or my partner know," she concluded with a smile.
We relaxed, showered, and decided to go out to one of their bars. No surprise there. Kingston's was where we landed in the end. It was definitely local. There were only two young men playing pool in the slightly elevated part of the pub. We sat at the actual bar, which was standard for us. We loved the conversation. Seeing as it was a Friday evening, though, the lack of patrons was slightly unexpected. Not great for having those conversations that we loved so much.
"How're you gentleman doing?" asked the elderly woman behind the bar.
"Really well, actually."
"Ahh, American?"
"Yes, ma'am," I responded.
"Well, I'm Mrs. Kingston - it's very nice to meet you two! What brings you here? Holiday?"
"Yeah - we're on holiday attempting to tour the country and its local pubs. We've succeeded so far!"
“With the tip of the nozzle, she made a design in the creamy Guinness foam. It was a flower.”
"Splendid. Just splendid. What'll it be for you then, boys?"
"Guinness."
"Smithwick's for me."
"No problem!"
"So, this is a family place?" my father inquired as she poured our pints.
"Yes. Yes. It's been in the family for... four generations? No - three. We actually just gave ownership to our son, but he's away on holiday as well, so Mr. Kingston and I are keeping watch for now."
This was going on as a news report played on television. She went to turn it down for sake of the conversation saying, "160 years. Can you believe that? That matchmaking festival's been going forever!"
"In Lisdoonvarna?" I asked. "We were just there!"
"Oh! You were? Beautiful little place. Just beautiful. Did you stay for the festival?"
Kingston's Bar and Beer Garden, Killorglin, IR
My dad and I laughed and gave our obvious response of no. Mrs. Kingston was a small woman with short, faded red hair. She was very sweet, clearly loved talking to her patrons, and she poured a damn good pint. With the tip of the nozzle, she made a design in the creamy Guinness foam. It was a flower.
"That's amazing!" my dad said in awe.
"When you work at a bar as long as we have, you pick up some tricks. My friends would come here and say, 'I want a pint just for the design!' Then, they would take an hour to touch it because they didn't want to ruin it. 'A work of art!' they said. Ha! Now, I'm known for it."
This woman was truly incredible. The three of us spoke about this and that as she continued to pour pints, and we continued to chug them down. It went for some time like this until a man and his daughter sat down next to us. Little did we know, we would enter into conversation with them for hours.
"Oh! We'll scoot down one," my father said to the pair. "That gives you a little more room," he said with a slightly drunken chuckle.
"Well, thank you, sir," the father said as he motioned his daughter to sit. His accent was clearly English, but I couldn't detect where from precisely.
"Where are you from?" I asked.
"Leicester, north of London. And yourselves?"
"We're on holiday from the States - Michigan. Are you on holiday, too?"
"Yeah - I've always promised my daughter we'd go on a trip to Ireland...."
"So did my dad! That's so cool."
"I'm sorry; I'm Ian, and this is my daughter Maddie," he said extending his hand.
"Kevin."
"Cullan."
"Very nice to meet you two," Maddie replied. "How'd you end up here?"
We told them our wild tale of going cross-country and how we'd listened mostly to locals for our plans. They were doing something quite similar, and it turns out Ian had actually worked and lived in Ireland when he was younger. My dad and Maddie's traded their work histories and then came the question.
"So, what do you do, Cullan?" Ian asked leaning his head on his right hand to see passed his daughter and my father.
"Well..." I said to buy time. "I got a degree in Political Science with two minors in Broadcast and Cinematic Arts as well as Cinema Studies. I'm sort of in a gap year right now. I'm applying for grad schools and freelancing. I own and operate a photography and videography business - I mostly do weddings and events...."
"So, why Political Science?" Maddie asked.
"Because it's what my father did and what I do," my dad responded. "It's in our blood - we've grown up with it, so it's very natural."
"But, what do you want to do, Cullan?" she asked.
"I love digital media and marketing. If I could combine the two or expand my business, that'd be the dream."
“You have no idea how much street cred your son gets for knowing a film like In Bruges.”
"If you were in Cinema Studies, you must know some foreign films!" Ian jumped in. He named a few I hadn't heard of.
"One of my favorites is In Bruges. Do you know it?" I responded.
"Oh, yeah. We love that movie...."
"In Bruges?" my dad questioned.
"It's like a dark-comedy, crime movie with Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson. You have no idea how much street cred your son gets for knowing a film like In Bruges."
My dad simply laughed. He and his wife have terrible taste in movies. They at least both admit it.
"Anyway, I also really enjoy volunteering."
"He's been on a few mission trips," my dad bragged. "That's why you should go into Public Administration - you could manage non...."
"I got it, Dad. Thank you."
"I myself love to volunteer. I volunteer in my hometown, actually. There's a group of us who respond to medical emergencies when ambulances can't arrive fast enough," Ian explained.
We spent some time on this topic, and he had a fascinating backstory to why he started doing that. The four of us chatted about what seemed to be everything under the sun. We talked politics, jobs, cultural differences and similarities, how we heated our houses, shingles, and much more. They had planned to stop in and get food, much like we had originally, but we ended up talking for nearly three hours. At some point, we finally got to what Maddie was doing.
"I'm in my second year at medical school."
"And my wallet knows it," Ian humorously interjected.
"Oh, you're set," my dad added.
"Would you look at this," Mrs. Kingston jumped in. "Two beautiful, smart, young people. Maybe there should be an arrangement made," she said with a smile. She'd clearly gotten the matchmaking fever.
All four of us laughed and continued on. Ian had a few Guinnesses while Maddie stuck to her half-pint. It seemed as if none of us wanted the night to end, and luckily for us, it was quite some time before it did. But, like all good things, it came to a reasonable conclusion. We said how nice it was to meet one another and bade our goodbyes. We went right to grab food, and they went left to their lodgings. My dad and I got some greasy burgers, hit an ATM, then made our way back to Kingston's. We weren't finished with the night yet.
At one point before we left for food, Mrs. Kingston swapped places with Mr. Kingston, so she could babysit. By the time we returned, Mr. Kingston had traded places with a young woman who was probably close to my age. We ordered more drinks, introduced ourselves, and told her we'd been here earlier.
"Why're you even in Killorglin? That's so... random," she said.
"Well, yeah, haha. We came to see the Gap, and this was cheaper than staying in Killarney. We've sort of been touring the country on suggestions, so most of this is random."
"Are you a student here?" my dad jumped in.
"Yeah - I go to...." (Fill in the blank.)
Sadly, I don't remember. But, we are friends on Facebook now, so I may just look it up. (I never did.) I do always try and keep my details as accurate as possible. One of our favorite quotes of Connie's - that's her name - was, "They say Galway is the place dreams go to die because you'll never want to leave it."
Connie is 19, of average height, has dark hair, and has a very kind and funny personality. She tried to converse with us as much as possible and only left for other customers when called by them. We spent a couple more hours speaking with Connie. I hope the chance to see her again one day, and I hope that for many of the people we'd met. They were all so... unique. Plus, international friendships can sometimes surprise you the most.
UPDATE
I'm currently sitting at gate M4 of Terminal 5 in O'Hare. This is the same gate my father and I flew out of to Dublin exactly three weeks ago. This flight to Dublin is actually at the same exact time. The difference is, Rome is my final destination this time around. Another trip so soon seems crazy, and it is, but I told myself I'd utilize this gap year to the fullest. People are scrutinizing me for my wanderlust and lack of finances. But, ya know what, I'll have the last laugh while I sip wine in Piazza Navona in Roma.
ANYWAY
Killorglin, County Kerry, IR
HIGHLIGHTS
Places Visited:
Day Four
Bunratty Castle & Folk Park
P. Mac Namara & Son Pub
Gap of Dunloe, County Kerry
The Aloha House, Killorglin
Kingston's Bar and Beer Garden, Killorglin
Stats
12,467 Steps
42 Floors
5.86 Miles
188 Active Minutes
