Hiking in Ireland: What's it Really Like?
Cascades of water flow like arteries. Moisture clings to you as if it’s a living entity, grabbing your boots and pulling them out from beneath you. Each step is sluggish. Each breath is labored. The elevation increases quickly. But despite the hard-fought terrain, hiking in Ireland provides some of the most unique landscapes and the most rewarding summits.
Mweelrea, County Mayo, Ireland
This quote comes from one of my earlier Instagram posts about a hike on Mweelrea (pictured above.) These words convey a pretty strong image of what hiking in Ireland is really like.
Coming from the US, I expected neatly groomed trails, loads of vegetation, and wildlife galore. I also expected the ground to be dry and that my boots would stay on my feet. All my assumptions were unfounded, and I was beaten by Ireland’s totally different style of trekking.
Listed below are the realizations I had about the harsh Ireland landscape and its seemingly malignant feelings toward hikers. I also discovered that when the weather conditions are just right, the country offers some of the most spectacular views and rewarding peaks. (And there’s always a pint of Guinness at the end.)
A Very Local Pub that Shall Remain Nameless to Preserve its Localness - The Best Post-Hike Pub in Ireland - Photo Courtesy of Jacob Richter
What hiking in Ireland is really like
First, of course, the weather
The weather in Ireland can change fairly quickly, especially on the mountains and especially by the sea where many of them reside. The Irish often say, “We can get four seasons in a day.”
If you’re hiking in the winter, it will most likely be pouring rain and extremely windy. The wind can be dangerous at times, so it’s important to be smart about if/when to call off a hike. I didn’t actually summit Diamond Hill (a well-known hike with lovely views) until my fourth attempt due to wind conditions, despite it being one of the shortest and easiest summits at a mere 442 meters (1,460 feet) of elevation.
To emphasize the winter conditions, I’ll tell a brief story:
On one trip with the NUI Galway Mountaineering Club, we stepped off the bus to near-freezing temperatures, a torrent of rain, and one blindingly close lightning strike. (This immediately after a friend and I mentioned we’d never seen lightning flash in Ireland.)
When we reached the first peak, hail burst from the sky and whipped us with a ferocity I’ve never felt before. Our small, apparently insane, crew could only move forward. We still had hours left to walk. It was only the second time in my life I thought I may lose a few digits to frostbite, and I was well prepared.
Even still, it was one of the greatest hikes I’ve been on, and I’d highly recommend anybody attending NUI Galway to join the Mountaineering Club. It may just make your college experience, as it did mine.
What I’m saying is, check the forecast. If it’s supposed to be nasty out, properly prep. If it’s supposed to be gorgeous, don’t believe it and prepare anyway.
Now, summer is different. The weather improves, visibility is usually better, and daylight can last up to 17 hours. Hiking is a much more pleasant prospect during Ireland’s summers. Nonetheless, it’s always good to be ready for whatever nature may throw at you.
Lastly on this note, it’s important to remember that the worst weather can make for some of the best (or at least most memorable) experiences.
Hike to Diarmuid and Grainne's Cave, County Sligo, Ireland
Secondly, let’s look at the terrain
It’s crucial to say this first; almost none of the hikes in Ireland have trails. Diamond Hill is one of those lovely exceptions. Generally, to know a route, you either have to use a map and a compass, utilize relevant hiking apps, know someone else who knows what they’re doing, or just point to a peak and do whatever it takes to get there.
Coming from an American-based perspective, the terrain of Ireland’s mountains is very different to what most of us would expect (and it’s probably unique to mainland Europeans as well.) Most importantly, it’s wet. And I mean really wet. You’re usually hiking through bog land, and I’ve more than once lost a boot to a muddy hole in the ground. It doesn’t improve much as you move upward because the types of native grasses and plants absorb so much water.
The landscape varies throughout the country, but in areas like Connemara and other parts of the West, it’s fairly vast. There aren’t a lot of trees, and most plant life consists of wind-blasted shrubs and grasses. That means the views are accessible and unbelievable.
There are plenty of cliff-side routes and trails. You could opt for the easier and more touristy Cliffs of Moher or venture to the likes of Slieve League. The latter is more remote, less riddled with day-trippers, and the reward at the top is equal parts terrifying and exhilarating.
Hike to Mweelrea, County Mayo, Ireland
Thirdly, The Gear you’ll need
Waterproof boots.
And I mean truly waterproof boots.
These will be your best friend. If you have hiking boots that aren’t fully hydrophobic, you could look into getting gaiters. Most friends I hike with swear by them, and there’s many a time I wished I had them myself.
Hiking pants and an accompanying pair of waterproof pants are recommended.
Bring a couple beanies and multiple pairs of gloves, especially in the colder months. The weather can change quickly, and it’s better to have a spare pair of whatever can keep you dry or warm.
Employ multiple layers up top. You can always take them off as needed. Breathable athletic shirts are great underneath, and it’s best to have a warm layer and a waterproof jacket for when it inevitably rains.
Pack a lunch and plenty of water - two liters is my usual minimum for a day’s hike.
Know where you’re at and where you’re going - use any combination of a map, compass, GPS device, or smart phone and backup battery. Make sure to notify someone of your plan and when you’ll be back.
Just in case something does happen, Mountain Rescue will help you (and they’ll do it for free, so don’t be scared to call in a genuine emergency. It’s only your pride that may suffer.)
One crucial note: you’ll never regret bringing an extra outfit and another pair of shoes for when you’re off the mountain. Don’t want to be dripping wet in the pub while you sip your Guinness.
Mweelrea, County Mayo, Ireland
Lastly, a very short list of suggested hikes
Cliffs of Moher from Liscannor (or from the visitor center)
Diamond Hill, Connemara National Park
Diarmuid and Grainne's Cave, County Sligo
Gap of Dunloe, Killarney National Park
Glendalough, County Wicklow
Leenaun Hill, County Galway
Maamturks, County Galway
Mweelrea, County Mayo
Pilgrim Path —> One Man’s Pass, Slieve League, County Donegal
Torc Waterfall, Killarney National Park
These are some of the things I’ve learned and tips I’ve picked up during my time in Ireland. I’m sure there’s a load I’ve missed, and there’s no doubt my Irish friends will make clear the gaps in my knowledge.
Disclaimer: this is all coming from the perspective of an American living abroad in Ireland for a year. There’s a lot I’ve yet to do here and plenty I still don’t know.
But now you should understand, at least a bit more, what hiking in Ireland is really like.
Have any thoughts on this blog post? If so, let me know in the comments. I love feedback, so don’t hesitate to reach out!
Thanks for reading, keep an eye out for future blog posts, and happy reading! - Cullan
